THE ULTIMATE LADAKH GUIDE

The mere mention of the word ‘Ladakh’ makes a wanderer on two-wheels go all misty-eyed and dreamy. Irrespective of whether he/she has ridden to Ladakh or not. That’s the passion-pull this remote, cold, rugged and awesomely beautiful Himalayan Desert exerts on the living thumping heart of a motorcyclist. Endless brown, green and white mountain vistas interspersed with turquoise blue lakes and tumultuous rivers are the rewards of braving the chills, the bone-shattering roads, the altitude sickness and the sheer loneliness that this ride presents.

About Ladakh:

Ladakh region is located in the Jammu and Kashmir state and its inhabitants, the Ladakhi’s, are mainly Buddhist and agriculture remains their mainstay means of earning livelihood and producing food. Though ever since the area was opened to tourists since 1974, the tourism sector has also become a major source of monetary growth. Four mountain ranges cross Ladakh, they being Zanskar, Karakoram, Ladakh and the Greater Himalayan range as does the mighty Indus River that flows through and is fed by its tributaries, the Shyok, Shingo and Zanskar rivers. Leh is the administrative capital of this region and is connected to the rest of the country by two road routes. One goes via Jammu, through Srinagar and crosses over the Zojila Pass to get to Leh via Kargil. The other route begins from Manali in Himachal Pradesh, crosses the Rohtang Pass and 4 other high mountain passes before reaching the Leh valley.

Apart from high mountain passes, even higher peaks and tumultuous rivers, the Ladakh region is peppered with amazingly beautiful lakes. Ranging from the almost sea-like Pangong Tso (only a third of which is within the Indian territory with the rest being in China) to the picturesque Tso Moriri and the placidly exquisite Tso Kar, each of these water bodies are a heavenly sight to behold. Ladakh being a Buddhist land abounds in monasteries and the welcoming nature of its people makes almost each one of those accessible to the visitor. The Leh city is a bustling retro-modern township and stands in sharp contrast to the relatively untouched and timeless region is resides in. It’s an oasis of urbanity in a sea of centuries old civilization that still feels no great need or shows any urgency to change towards modernity. All the better as the past preserved in equilibrium without depriving anyone of the benefits of change is the ultimate solution. One does get glimpses of such equilibrium when wandering through this amazing land.

BEST TIME TO RIDE TO LEH

The road route is closed for almost 6 months a year, from end October to early May (the Manali – Leh route is closed for a month or so more than the Srinagar one) as the high mountain passes remain snow-bound for that time. During this time the only way to get to Leh is by air. The ariel route is not of obvious interest to a motorcyclist who wants to ride to Leh but attains importance if you want to do a winter ride in and around Leh.

  : Not Accessible by road.

:Accessible by road.

GETTING THERE

For a motorcyclist (or a motorist) there are two road routes for reaching Leh. For the sake of convenience and detail, we shall describe the route with Delhi as the starting point even though both the routes run common till Ambala which is about 200 kms north of Delhi. The route description here is strongly biased towards those traveling by two-wheels. For reference to distances between different way-points, please refer to the accompanying detailed route map in the following pages.

Pros and cons of riding Manali – Leh route compared to Srinagar – Leh:

Pros :

Astonishingly beautiful landscape

Less traffic as compared to Srinagar – Leh

If you like off-roading, this is the route to take

Many more options for stopovers available

Overall much more scenic

Is shorter

This route can actually become the highlight of the trip, as almost 50% of the natural beauty is experienced along this route.

Cons:

Not for the uninitiated. You go unprepared, well, you can get yourself killed!

High chances of AMS as you will halt for the first day at 4200m. That’s a rise of 2200m from Manali which is at 2000m, in one day!

Dangerous, narrow sections of the road are quite common throughout the route.

Mud, lots of mud. Especially at places near Pang and Tanglang la. Couple that with narrow passage, and you have to be really careful.

At some stretches, you won’t find anyone. Hence if something goes wrong with you or your bike, you should know how to fix it, as you will have to find a way out yourself. And if you are alone, then God help you!

Breathlessness while crossing high passes is a common problem.

Snowbound for most of the year. In comparison, Srinagar – Leh opens earlier and closes later.

Probability of high passes being snow-bound and closed is greater.

After Tandi, no petrol pump for the next 300 kms!

Pros and cons of riding Srinagar – Leh route compared to Manali – Leh:

Pros :

This route is flatter and more linear as the highest pass you come across in this route is the Fotu-la which is at a meager 13,500 feet.

More places to stay and eat.

This route is normally busy, so you if you mess-up at someplace, chances are you’ll find someone to help you out.

Much better roads. If you leave aside Zoji la and some stretches near Fotu la, there is proper tarmac all the way through to Leh. In fact the final30 kms to Leh are double lane and marked!

You cannot miss passing through ‘Heaven on Earth’ – Kashmir.

Climb is easier and less amount of skill level is needed on this route.

The gradual increase in altitude helps in acclimatizing better and so there are fewer chances of AMS.

Cons :

Outrageous amount of traffic till Srinagar which is a big turn-off, if you are coming from the plains.

The Jammu – Srinagar road is notorious for ill mannered truckies and tempo-travelers. People do not want to stick to their own lanes! Abrupt overtaking at blind corners, useless honking, traffic jams yadda yadda yadda.

Quite boring. Not as exciting and as beautiful as the Manali – Leh road

Takes an extra day ex-Delhi

Given the volatile nature of Kashmir politics, it’s always a risk passing through this route.

Only one gateway pass-Zojila which can be a deterrent in terms of too much traffic and uncertainty due to weather.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT MOTORCYCLE :

Seat Comfort

A happy bum makes you a happy bum! The seat is something that will probably need some extra padding up with firmer foam. Usually the stock foam is too soft for a ride like Ladakh. But then those lighter in weight will not find this that big an issue. It is a matter of how much weight you put on the seat per square inch. So that’s another reason to loose those extra kilo’s before such a ride.

Braking

Disc brakes are common, very effective and extremely useful in hill riding. At least the front needs to be a disc as one can live with rear drums without any appreciable loss in braking prowess of the bike.

Ergonomics

How good is the physical match between you and your bike? For a simple handlebar-foot-peg compatibility check with your physique, put the bike on its main-stand, sit on it, close your eyes and reach out for the handlebars. If the end-grips fall naturally at hand for you, then the ergo’s are spot-on for you. Bad ergonomics, say those that make you crouch or reach farther than what your natural stance permits will be a pain to ride for long hours and for days at stretch.

Ground Clearance

The higher the better. The Ladakh route has places where you’ll be riding over rocks a foot high and if your bike grounds its bottom at 6 inches, then you’re as good as stopped by those remaining 6 inches. Those bikes with bigger wheels (The Bullet, Karizma, Unicorn etc) fare better both in terms of ground clearance and in handling better on rough ground.

Weight

Ideally, you will be the best off with a powerful bike that makes lots of torque at low rpm’s, is reliable, rugged, has a range of at least 450kms unrefueled and is light in weight. Well, the ideal conditions are usually a bit distant from reality and weight is something you have to live with. Of course, the lighter bikes make it easy for you to wrestle them through tough water crossings, sand, slush and most importantly in picking it up in case of a fall. Choose light weight but not at the cost of power, torque, reliability, ruggedness and range.

Ease of in-field repair

Reliability is no guarantee for zero failure. And a bike that is easy to fix on the road is a boon on such rides to remote places. The bullet scores on this as do quite a few of the Japanese designs. As a thumb rule, any bike that does not require any special tools to change its control cables, clean the air filter, adjust those tappet clearances and tune the carburetor should be the choice. Because for any other more serious issues, you’ll probably need to get the bike carried to a workshop anyways.

Tyres

Dual purpose tubeless are fast becoming the unanimous choice amongst bikers to Ladakh or any such destination that entails a fair bit of broken tarmac, dirt roads, slush, sand and at times even snow. The dual purpose tread pattern gives good grip and traction in off-road conditions including in soft snow. Tubeless tyres are not prone to sudden deflation and they have a tendency to lose air slowly which can be a boon and a life saver on this ride. Also, repairing them by the road-side is a relatively easy job provided you have the means of re-inflating them at hand. (see checklist for ‘vital tools to carry’). The only downside with tubeless compared to tubed tyres is the tendency for the former to lose air in case the wheel rim gets dented for some reason.

Ruggedness

Quite a large part of your riding will be in places that have little or no roads. Add the stresses of steep climbs at power-sapping altitudes, the extreme cold and the profusion of dust or slush and you’ll realize how robust and tough your bike should be. No amount of mental resolve or physical toughness on the rider’s part can fix a broken frame or collapsed suspension. If something that big and important breaks, you don’t even have the option of walking and dragging the bike left with you. So look for a proven rugged bike for this trip.

Reliability

An aspect of utmost importance. The Ladakh region is one of the least populated places on the planet and far from expecting knowledgeable and well-equipped help in fixing a bike gone kaput, you’ll rarely find another soul on certain stretches. So look for a motorcycle that has a good record on reliability.

Handling

You definitely need a bike that handles well and in predictable manner. As the Delhi – Leh trip using any of the two routes entails almost 2000 kms of mountain riding. Also, a well-sorted bike is less stressful to ride, both physically and mentally as it does not need constant corrective inputs and the rider can afford to relax a little while riding. Too responsive and twitchy a set-up is fine for a couple of hours of tarmac thrashing but for a long chain of long days on the road, a more relaxed set-up is not just good but a necessity.

Torque

The more torque you get at low rpm’s, the better it is as it’ll give your bike good climbing ability at low speeds.

PREPARATIONS FOR THE RIDE :

Any well kept and maintained motorcycle can do this ride. We’ll give you a few pointers here and identify areas that you can take particular care to make sure your ride remains an adventure of choice than becoming one of circumstance.

A perfectly serviceable bike, a full complement of luggage, spares and all other necessary stuff will make for a great ride only if you – the rider are prepared, fit and capable of using that collected and collated hardware to the hilt. Even though a ride like this has more to do with a positive attitude in the face of adversity, the physical self too needs to be capable of translating those positive thoughts into action.

The Drive Chain

As vital as all the other parts put together. If in any doubt about the integrity of your bike’s drive chain or if it has been adjusted to more than half the possible adjustment range, change the chain and both the sprockets as a set. Do not ride out with a chain shortened to acceptable length by removing a link. A stretched chain means the link plates and roller pins have worn out almost to the limit. Hard stresses will make any one of them snap. And then you’re in trouble. As an added insurance for reparability though, carry a couple of master links in your spares kit.

The Clutch and Gearbox

Both these need to be in a very good condition for you and your bike to make it through a Ladakh ride together. Take expert opinion and get the clutch plates changed a week or two before the ride (this will give them time to bed in). Usually, it is the clutch that causes apparent gearbox problems like hard or notchy shifts. If such gear issues do not get resolved even with a new clutch plate set, then obviously there’s a definite issue within the gearbox itself. Needless to say, do not ride out with gearbox issues as they will only get worse and almost surely leave you stranded at the worst possible time and place.

Lights and Electricals
Check the status of the battery, especially in the case of bikes that just have a self-starter with no back-up kick start and are fuel injected. A flat battery in this case would be akin to an engine failure. Clean the battery connections and cover them with silicone grease to keep moisture out. Replace the stock head-light bulb with a better illuminating halogen. Whether you go in for an HID set-up is of course an individual decision. But make sure the re-wiring is well done, keep a relay and ballast as spare and make sure the HID mountings are as strong as they can be. Check all major connections, spray them and the switches with WD-40 and harness the wires in a way that they don’t rub against the bike body or the frame. Turn the handle lock to lock to check for this.

Luggage Options
Saddlebags, Panniers, rucksacks or dufflebags tied to the pillion seat. Tank bags for up front. The choice is enormous and each has its own advantages and disadvantages. Saddlebags and panniers become a must if you’re riding with a pillion. But whatever choice you select, make sure to wrap your stuff in polythene bags/waterproof fabric before putting them into the luggage. Rain, slush and dust will be your incessant companions and only an impermeable barrier like the above mentioned will keep your things, clothes, food, equipment and medicines safe and clean. Do not carry a rucksack on your back. You will strain your neck muscles in a day or two as this ride entails the worst roads you can think off. Make sure the mountings and frame for the panniers is doubly strong compared to what worked for you during other ordinary rides. This is off-road territory and the jumps and bumps will put unthought of loads on the mounting points. Carry spare bungee cords/elastic nets and some nylon clothesline for emergency tie-down purpose.

Wheels and Tyres
Go in for tubeless tyres if you can and prefer dual purpose tread patterns. Check the cush-drive rubbers of the rear wheels and replace them with new ones if the existing ones are cracked or have gone too hard. Check the wheel for any dents and alignment. Spoked wheels need balancing all the more. Make sure the tyre is mounted properly on the rim by making sure the moulding line along the tyre’s bead is equidistant from the rim all round the circumference.

The Frame
A couple of weeks before the ride, get it thoroughly washed and inspect the frame closely for any visible cracks, bends or other deformities that could indicate an impending failure when it gets a beating on the road to Leh. Look out for cracks in the paint that might have an overloaded component beneath. This is also the time to get a second or third opinion about the straightness of the bike’s handlebars. Short daily commutes do not cause any major physical discomfort even when done with an out of alignment handlebar but the long hours and days on the way to Ladakh will have you surviving on pain-killers for that sore shoulder or wrist which a straight handle would not have caused.

The Engine

Unusual engine noise, vibration, over-heating, difficult starts, intermittent idling and running and consumption of oil are pointers to an unhealthy engine. Only an experienced hand at bike maintenance can advise you here. But the point is to follow that advise to avoid a major breakdown miles from home and help.

The Suspension
Check the shock absorbers/damping units for cracks, deformity, rebound damping etc. Check the front fork seals for oil leaks, check fork action for good suspension action. Compare static ride height with a new bike to ensure your bike’s suspension doesn’t have too much sag. Front fork alignment can be an issue but it usually is obvious enough for the rider to have it rectified soon after it happens say after a collision of due to a fall.

The Brakes

a. Discs

Check disc thickness and disc pad wear. Disc thickness should be within acceptable limits (which are usually stamped on the disc itself) as too thin a disc might get warped by the heat generated during hard usage of the brake. Disc pads should have double the miles you’ll do during the trip as they will wear faster during hill riding. Check brake fluid quality and quantity. Change the fluid if it looks black or very dark. Make sure the brake feel is not spongy which indicates air in the system. Check brake hose for leaks, cracks or localized ballooning. Carry a spare set of disc pads.

b. Drums

Check brake shoe lining. Get the drum lightly sanded and cleaned for good braking. Adjust the brakes so that you get braking once the pedal is depressed about an inch or so.

Seat

Get a layer of high-density foam added to the stock foam but make sure the ride height does not increase to uncomfortable levels. Make sure the seat cover is a tight fit or it will wrinkle and pucker in the crotch area and make life difficult for you with the resulting chaffing of the groins.

Control Cables

Change all control cable with new ones and keep the old ones as spares. Better still and this applies specially to the clutch cables, leave the old cable where it was while you put in the new one and connect it. The old cable can be hooked up quickly and cleanly in case the new one fails.

Air Filter

Change the air filter element with a new one if it’s a paper element type. Clean the foam type. In case you want to go in for a free-flow type filter, then do the changes a couple of weeks before you leave for the ride.

THE PHOTOGRAPHY :

Ladakh is one of the most picturesque places on Earth. Not just beautiful landscapes but the people, the architecture, the culture et al makes for amazing pictures. And of course the journey as you travel from the plains to Leh and then ride beyond is not something you do very often in life.

So taking back great pictures that’ll keep those memorable moments alive forever is so very important. Getting back home and then sharing your ride with your friends and loved ones becomes one added avenue of delight that a ride to this mystic land grants you. Let’s look at these brief pointers below that’ll help you take back good pictures.

In these times of digital photography, taking pictures by the hundreds is not an expensive proposition. It’s just a matter of having memory cards with a large enough memory. But sorting them out back home can become a pain. So even though each click will not cost you as it would have with film cameras, shoot to make every frame count. Think and click.

Don’t buy a new camera that you’re unfamiliar with and take it with you on your ride to Leh. Take tried and tested hardware, equipment that you’re familiar and comfortable with even if it is no longer as hi-tech as the newer models. Try and get a weather proof camera (if a point & shoot) or a weather proof housing (if you have a DSLR). The weather there can mess up with your cameras pretty fast. Also remember that the batteries can discharge faster than anticipated because of the cold, so carry more battery packs or alternate charging options lest you miss that perfect shot. Use the tankbag to keep the camera equipment and lenses for easy access without getting off from the bike, saves a lot of time and energy.

Take plenty of memory cards to avoid the disappointment of running out of memory space when you want to capture a beautiful picture. Also remember that videos take many times more memory space than still pictures. Don’t depend on the possibility of transferring pics from the memory card to a CD at some cyber café in Leh.

Shoot jpegs instead of RAW files unless you are a professional at photography and plan to use the pics back home in different mediums. Jpegs take a fraction of memory space compared to RAW files.

In the same vein, always shoot at the highest possible resolution of your camera. A Leh ride is special and you don’t want to regret a low resolution shot that is exceptionally rare or beautiful.

IMPORTANT TIPS FOR GETTING GOOD PHOTOS :

The rule of thirds or intersection of 3′s: This rule suggests that you divide a typical photograph frame into three equal parts, both horizontally and vertically. The four points where these lines intersect are called ‘ Strong Points’ or ‘The Points of Interest’. Preferably, place the subject on any of these points.

Fill the frame. Avoid empty spaces in the frame.

In case of landscapes, the center of interest should not be in the center of the frame.

Do not place the horizon line across the center of the frame. Use the ‘Rule of Thirds’ and place the
horizon either at the lower 1/3rd or the upper 1/3rd of the frame.

Preferably, include some living thing to give a scale of reference.

Arrange the picture so that the eye is led towards the center of interest.

Diagonals running into the picture e.g. curving rivers and mountain roads lead the eye into the picture

Try and include enough foreground interest to balance a distant scene

Strong diagonals can be irritating unless you include a ‘stop’ lie a tree, another mountain, a house etc.

With distant scenes where none of the subject matter is close to the camera, manual focus cameras can be set to infinity and there is no need to focus between pictures.

Sunsets can fool the exposure meters of even the most sophisticated cameras. To set exposure, take a reading from an area of the sky just adjacent to the sun but not including it.

Action pictures are less blurred if the subject is moving towards the lens rather than crossing the frame.

Wide apertures produce less sharp pictures. Try not to use a lens at full aperture.

Backlighting misleads the cameras’ meter producing underexposure. Over-expose by half or one stop.

Long focus lenses exaggerate camera shake. Preferably use fast shutter speeds or support the camera on a rigid support.

For good pictures by candlelight, shoot when the subjects’ face is close to the flame since light falls off rapidly with distance. And when taking an exposure reading, keep the flame out of the frame or the meter will make you underexpose.

Accommodating too many colours in a single picture clutters it up.

Warm colours such as reds, yellows and orange advance towards the viewer. When you superimpose them over a cool background in blue or green hues, the picture takes on almost three-dimensional qualities.

To catch colours at their brightest, shoot them in direct and bright sunlight.

When using wide-angle lenses, take care to keep foreground filled and yet uncluttered.

A polarizing filter enriches the colour of the blue sky esp. the side facing directly away from the sun. Rotate the filter as you look through the viewfinder to find the orientation that gives the max effect.

MEDICAL EMERGENCIES :

Most of us live at the bottom of the ocean of air we call the atmosphere. As we climb high or gain altitude, the pressure outside decreases and with it does the density. Our atmosphere contains about 21% of available breathable oxygen by volume and even though this ratio remains the same all through, the quantity of oxygen reduces with the reduced amount of air at high altitudes. This reduction in breathable oxygen makes us ‘sick’ as our bodies are used to living in higher concentrations of oxygen. And this reduction continues to trouble us till the time our body adapts or ‘acclimatizes’ to that lower oxygen content. This acclimatization takes time in terms of days and we being impatient and having means to rapidly gain altitude in a matter of hours, suffer acutely. So much so that too much a gain in altitude in too little a time span can even prove fatal for us.

De-hydration

Higher altitude means faster breathing and of course more effort at doing things than at sea- level. Both these factors imply that you’ll lose more water through breathing and perspiration. Add to that the fact that air at altitudes places like Leh is located is very dry and so it robs your body of significantly more moisture. As a motorcyclist, the dry wind will only make the situation worse. So if you do not consciously increase your fluid intake, you’ll in all probability end up dehydrated. This will only mean that you get AMS quicker.

Avoiding it - The usual thumb rule used by most mountaineers is to drink about 8-10 glasses of water a day when you’re riding. The colour of your urine or rather the lack of colour there is a useful indicator of your level of hydration. Clear urine means a hydrated body. But in your enthusiasm to stay hydrated, avoid over-hydration as that will encourage water-retention in your body cells and would also accelerate the onset of AMS.

Hypothermia

Our body reacts to exposure to cold by shivering to generate heat. When exposed to extreme cold conditions (sub-zero temperatures) and without adequate warm and protective clothing, shivering isn’t enough and the body’s ‘core’ temperature begins to drop below 98 deg F. ‘Core’ here implies the inner organs of the body like liver, lungs, stomach etc . That’s hypothermia. And when that happens, you’ll go drowsy, lose strength, have incoherent thoughts and slowly slip away into a sleep that you’ll never wake up from.

Avoiding it - Dress in enough layers to keep warm in the coldest weather you’ll encounter, eat well and keep hydrated. Warm clothes, hot food and adequate fluids will see you ‘breeze’ through the coldest of winters.

Frostbite

Frostbite and hypothermia are brothers in arms. In freezing conditions, the water present in our body tissues chills to the point of freezing. This cuts it off from the regenerative powers of blood-circulation and if prolonged for even a few hours, that tissue is irreversibly damaged. The nose, cheeks, ears, fingers, and toes (your extremities) are most commonly affected. In conditions of prolonged exposure to freezing temperatures, the body constricts the blood vessels in your arms and legs. This way the body preferably sends blood to the vital organs, supplying them with critical nutrients, while also preventing hypothermic cooling of the body exposing less blood to the outside cold. Water in the tissue starts freezing, its capillaries get blocked and the issue dies.

Avoiding it - Use good gloves double layer of socks inside thick leather shoes and keep your nose and cheeks covered by wearing a balaclava in freezing conditions. In case your fingers or toes freeze or go feelingless, warm them at a safe distance from a fire or dip them in water not exceeding 45 deg C. Keep wiggling your toes inside the shoes and fingers moving to encourage blood circulation.

Wind Chill

Wind-chill is the combined cooling effect of air, temperature and wind on a heated body, rather than temperature as shown by the thermometer. This means that it is a lot colder when the wind is blowing than what the thermometer shows. The effective temperature is lowered in the presence of heat robbing wind. The higher the speed of the wind, the greater is the temperature drop. To grasp the seriousness of the issue, if still air temperature is 0 deg C, then a rider riding at 60 kph will in effect be exposed to – 20 deg C, which is prime hypothermia/frostbite territory. These figures are for dry conditions. Wet clothing retains as little as one-tenth of its insulating value and even fog or mist could get you wet enough.

Avoiding it - So overdress while standing and never forget to have a top layer of windproof/rainproof clothing for your Ladakh sojourn.

Sunstroke and Sunburns

There’s an apt saying about Ladakh. “Only in Ladakh can a man sitting in the sun with his feet in the shade suffer from sunstroke and frostbite at the same time!” and it is true. It’s the altitude and the clear atmosphere that lets the sun shine upon you in all its ferocious glory. And so sunburns and sunstrokes are an unexpected reality that needs to be protected against. In fact sunburns become all the more easy to get in winters as the snow all around reflects sunlight and can double its intensity.

Avoiding it - Keep your limbs covered and use sunscreen on exposed skin to avoid sun-burns and wear a cap when not wearing your helmet to avoid sun-stroke. The intense sun heats up your head and the body’s temperature control goes haywire. If affected, you’ll feel thirsty, dizzy, possibly high temperature and unduly fatigued. To affect a cure, get out of the sun, rest under shade, drink plenty of fluids and avoid exposure to the sun for a day or two.

Back-pain

A motorcyclists’ back usually takes a beating during long rides and this is all the more accentuated during a ride into rough terrain as found in and around Ladakh. Constant riding over broken roads strains the back, neck, shoulders and wrists to the point that they start aching badly.

Avoiding it - While such aches and pains will remain a reality on this ride and cannot be completely eliminated, proper riding posture, using your legs to cushion the shocks, proper working suspension, a good seat, frequent rest during long riding stages and good physical fitness levels can make a big difference towards lesser pains and aches.

Chaffed skin

Long hours on the saddle means that the crotch and buttock area stays in constant contact with the seat of the bike. Bumps, braking and acceleration etc cause you to move up, down and sideways in the saddle. This movement causes friction between your skin and the clothing you’re wearing. Also, lack of ventilation to the groin area means persistent perspiration. This softens and sensitizes that skin locally and friction causes surface wounds called chaffing. That part of the skin burns and pains as if lacerated.

Avoiding it - Remedies include long underwear made of absorbent fabrics like cotton, liberal use of some antiseptic ointment on the skin folds, avoiding garments that have thick seamlines which will form pressure points on your skin, good personal hygiene of the crotch area specially and frequent ‘bum-off-the-saddle’ stops will help avoid this problem.

Acute Mountain Sickness

Most of us live at the bottom of the ocean of air we call the atmosphere. As we climb high or gain altitude, the pressure outside decreases and with it does the density. Our atmosphere contains about 21% of available breathable oxygen by volume and even though this ratio remains the same all through, the quantity of oxygen reduces with the reduced amount of air at high altitudes.

This reduction in breathable oxygen makes us ‘sick’ as our bodies are used to living in higher concentrations of oxygen. And this reduction continues to trouble us till the time our body adapts or ‘acclimatizes’ to that lower oxygen content. This acclimatization takes time in terms of days and we being impatient and having means to rapidly gain altitude in a matter of hours, suffer acutely. So much so that too much a gain in altitude in too little a time span can even prove fatal for us.

Disclaimer: The information disseminated and recommendations of suitable drugs given here is NOT a substitute for qualified medical advice. Please consult a qualified doctor before proceeding with consumption of any of the medicines discussed here

This sickness, aptly termed ‘Acute Mountain Sickness’, usually affects us at altitudes higher than 2500 mtrs (8000 ft) above mean sea level (AMSL). Our first feel of reduced oxygen in the air is by getting breathless during activities that would be commonplace to us at home. The body strives to adapt and so our breathing patterns change along with other physiological changes. We breathe deeper and quicker, we urinate more frequently and the fluid/electrolyte balance of our blood changes. Whenever the oxygen balance of the body is upset i.e. you cannot replace as much oxygen through breathing as you consume, an oxygen debt occurs (called Hypoxia) and you enter the AMS zone. In fact our body has a certain ‘tolerance range’ for lowered oxygen levels and as long as your gain in altitude lies within this ‘tolerance range’ you shall be fine. In fact, acclimatization is a process of extending this tolerance range further towards lower levels of available oxygen. To avoid AMS completely, you need to limit your daily gain in altitude to where it remains within your tolerance range. Usually this amounts to about 1500 ft (500 meters) in vertical height as ‘sleeping’ altitude. Sleeping implies that even if you exceed a gain of 1,500 ft during your day travel, you should not sleep at a place that’s higher than 1500ft from the place you slept the previous night.

As motorcyclists who can cover lots of distance (both horizontal and vertical) during a riding day, that’s usually far from what we do. We typically end up way higher than the ideal at night, especially on routes like Manali – Leh. So AMS expectedly affects most of us, a lucky few escaping due to some unknown physiological advantage or previous exposure to that altitude say within the last few months. The accompanying chart details the symptoms of AMS and its two more serious and at times fatal iterations vis a vis High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) and High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE).

Both HACE and HAPE are the most severe forms of AMS and need emergency descent to lower altitudes in sync with proper medical attention. Fortunately, this would be a rare occurrence for motorcyclists even on the Manali – Leh route as long as the riders’:

Don’t get adventurous enough to stay the night on top of high passes and descend as low as practical for the night e.g. Bharatpur, Sarchu, Pang etc.

Refrain from smoking, consuming alcohol (the latter reduces breath-rate and so worsens hypoxia), taking sleeping pills and narcotics.

Exert only as much as is necessary

Remain hydrated and eat light food

It is the best to acclimatize naturally even if it means an extra day in the itinerary. My old favorite method for the Manali – Leh route is to ride to Rohtang Top the day after arriving in Manali, spend the entire day lazing around above 12,000 ft, keep myself hydrated with soups, tea and water and return to Manali for the night. Leaving for Leh the following morning, I have rarely faced anything more than mild AMS during my night stay at Sarchu. For those who insist on accelerated acclimatization, Diamox (Acetazolamide) is the usual recommended though with its own disadvantages.

It’s a Sulfonamide salt and those allergic to Sulphur should not use it.

Numbness and tingling in extremities (hands & feet) and the edges of the lips

Carbonated soft drinks play havoc with the taste buds. It’s like drinking liquid electricity!

Ringing in the ears and/or tinnitus is also pretty common as is blurring of vision.

Diamox is a mild diuretic and so you’ll lose more water through frequent urination, thus increasing the risk of dehydration.

The usual recommended dosage for adults is about 125mg twice a day (12 hrs between doses). The same dosage can be started a day before gaining altitude as a preventive. BUT REMEMBER THAT EVEN IF YOU’RE ON DIAMOX, A RAPID ASCENT (>2,500 FT sleeping altitude) COULD STILL LEAD TO SEVERE AMS.

The other drug commonly discussed and used for AMS is Decadron (Dexamethasone). This is a steroid used primarily to treat swelling of the brain tissue. While Diamox treats the ‘problem of AMS’, this just treats the symptoms. It does not help in acclimatization and can in fact mask the symptoms of AMS. This masking can bring about a false sense of security and the rider would continue higher even when not fit for altitude gain. Decadron is NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR DIAMOX. It is meant to treat HACE and that is where it should be used. And certainly not without proper medical direction.

All said and done, there are 3 golden rules for avoiding, managing and treating AMS that mountaineers follow unquestioningly. And we motorcyclists can certainly take this leaf out of their books. The 3 rules are: 1. If you feel unwell at altitude, assume it is AMS unless categorically proven otherwise 2. Never, never continue to ascend with symptoms of AMS 3. If your AMS symptoms get worse with time, descend at once.

LIST OF MEDICINES :

Common Medicine Kit	Quantity	Why take it?
Gauze Bandages (1″ & 2 “)	4 each	Big injury dressing
Savlon Liquid	1 bottle	Antiseptic cleaning liquid
Calendula Ointment	1 tube	Antiseptic ointment
Boroline Cream	1 tube	Rashes, chaffed skin etc
Burnol ointment	1 tube	Burns
Cotton (rolls)	2 small packs	Injury dressing
Bandaid Strips	15	Small injury dressing
Diamox Tabs (125mg)	10	Preventive for mild AMS
Digene Tabs	10	Antacids
Voveran SR Tabs	10	Pain-killer
Dependal Tabs	10	Diarrhea
Combiflam Tabs	10	Fever and body-ache
Perinome Tabs	10	Anti nausea
Electral Packs	3	Oral rehydration solution
Elastic Bandage (2″ type)	1	Sprains, muscle tears etc

TRIP FINANCIAL CALCULATOR:

Want to make an estimate of how much your dream ride to Ladakh would cost you? Here’s an easy way of doing it. Fill in the empty fields in the calculator and get an estimate pronto! How? Select the route – via Manali (1100 kms) or via Srinagar (1500 kms); insert your bike’s mileage (say 30 kmpl); insert approximate price of petrol/ltr (say Rs. 70/-); add in the cost of spares you’re carrying (check out the typical list of spares ); calculate the total number of days of your trip (check the sample itineraries ‘here’); add approx cost of food per day per head (say Rs. 300/-); insert appox hotel expenses you plan (say Rs. 500/- per head per night) and hit the ‘Calculate Now’ button. You get your estimate as a break-up of four values – fuel expense, food/accommodation/spares, contingency amount @ 10% of the sum of the top two values and the final grand total. Click on the check boxes showing ‘One way’ or ‘Return trip’ and you get the relevant calculations. So go ahead and play around with numbers to hit your budgeted sum. Money planned is half the work done!

IN AND AROUND LEH

Since almost the entire Ladakh region is a militarily sensitive area, movement of tourists/visitors at most of the places is restricted and one needs to have special permits to visit the areas that fall beyond the Inner line of Control.

These permits, called the Inner Line Permits, can be easily obtained from DC’s office in Leh Town at a very nominal fee that is taken as contribution towards district Red Cross fund. You need to fill in a few basic details about yourself, the places you want to visit, the duration of your movement in those areas along with a copy of your identity proof. To make things easy, plan your itinerary and add 3-4 days to it before filling in the dates on the form. This way, even if you get held due to weather or road blockage, you will not have to run to the DC’s office again to extend the duration of the permit. You can also get the permits through your travel agent for a little extra charge within 2-3 hours on any working day. Also get the permit photocopied. At least 4 copies for every region you have listed for the permit. You will need to deposit a copy of the permit at each check-post you cross.

Leh – Hunder

The next logical destination after K-Top, Hundar is relatively easily accessible, has accommodation, great views and is the place where you find the famed double-hump camels of the Himalayan desert region apart from neighboring Nubra valley.

Leh – Nubra

Another popular destination for Ladakh visitors. At 10,000 feet, the beautiful Nubra valley is famous for its sand dunes and doublehump Bactrian camels. The descent from K-Top leads to Khalsar where the road bifurcates and the one on the right takes you to Panamik village, the last point on this route where a civilian can go. The total distance one way is around 140 kms.

Khalsar – Pangong Tso

While most of the travelers prefer to take the normal Leh – Chang La – Pangong Tso route, this relatively new road is for the stronghearted ones. The 140 km one-way ride is a tough one, but provides an alternate route to the people who do not want to go back to Leh after visiting the Nubra valley and instead want to go Pangong Tso directly. The route is Khalsar – Agam – Shyok - Durbuk – Tangtse – Lukung and is totally broken at most of the places, suitable for 4×4 vehicles and of course motorcycles.

Leh – Pangong Tso

Or simply the road to heaven, the road that takes you to one of the most beautiful places on this planet, Pangong Tso. Pangong Tso is a beautiful salt water lake that is roughly 170 km long. Around twothird of the lake lies in China’s control, while we have been blessed with only one-third of it. To reach Pangong, you need to cross the ‘Mighty Chang La” pass (17,590 ft), which is one of the most challenging passes in this region for motorists. A tough 340 km round trip but the heavenly views of this blue-colored lake make it worthwhile. To truly enjoy the place, stay overnight at Lukung and spend a whole next day to witness the lake change from gray to greens to different shades of blues as the day progresses.

Leh – Turtuk

The relatively unknown circuit was closed to all civilians since the last two decades and has been opened since the last year or so. Very remote even compared to Hunder and Diskit, Turtuk is the last frontier village on the border between India and China. Just past Hunder, one gets to see a very unusual sight of an airstrip in the middle of this cold Himalayan Desert. It is the Thoise Air force Base. The road is a mix of tarmac, broken tarmac and dirt with the last being predominant. Care must be taken in the use of the camera as this route lies in the extremely sensitive border region.

Marsemik La Pass

For those who were ‘disappointed’ by the challenges that “ the world’s highest motorable road” threw at them, there is one road that takes you to the Marsemik La or Marsimik La. The ride to this pass is really a test for both the bike and the biker and very few have been able to conquer this pass. Even those who have done it, needed to push their bike at some stretches while climbing as there is hardly any oxygen to burn the fuel to provide power to the engine. Visiting Marsemik La also requires the Inner Line Permit, though in case of bad weather you can easily be denied crossing the check post at Phobrang by the authorities despite having the Inner Line Permit. The pass is at around 18,314 ft from sea level and one-way ride from Pangong is around 45 kms.

Leh – Tso Moriri

Tso Moriri – Another beautiful lake in the Ladakh region that is a must to do if you are coming or going via the Manali-Leh route. The lake is located at an altitude of 15,075 feet in the Changthang region of Ladakh. Visiting Tso Moriri also requires one to have Inner Line Permit. Tso Moriri is roughly 240 kms from Leh and the roads are a mix of good and bad ones, though mostly on the broken side. Apart from Chumathang and Korzok, there are hardly any other stay options on this route past Leh and phone/internet availability is also questionable.

Kargil – Zanskar

On the Srinagar-Leh route, a detour a little ahead from Kargil would take you to Zanskar. Due to almost non-existent roads, very few people dare to venture into this territory, but those who do are greeted with the beautiful and colorful vistas of the Zanskar and Suru Valley and a tough but unforgettable journey. There are no petrol pumps in the entire Zanskar valley, so it is recommend to tank up and/or carry extra fuel from Kargil. Expect the roads to be worse than whatever you have faced till now in your Ladakh journey. Padum, 171 from Kargil is the road-head and turn back point. Has plenty of stay options and other amenities like internet café and restaurants available there. This whole route freezes during winter and the famous Chaddar trek is about walking on the frozen Zanskar river then!

WINTER MOTORCYCLING IN LADAKH :

Riding motorcycles in leh in the middle of winter may sound crazy but is possible and so has been done. Of course, it’s more difficult; your extent of travel can be severely limited, is definitely a lot more expensive and requires a much higher degree of preparation. The primary reason for these differences lies in the prevailing temperatures at that time of the year. With the mercury remaining well below freezing all the time and dipping down as much as – 40 deg C, the conditions are almost of Arctic proportions. But winter Ladakh offers the kind of beauty and exclusivity of experience that it makes all that frozen suffering worth its while.

The road route to Ladakh from the plains closes in late October/early November and so the only way to ride there in winter is to fly in and hire a bike to ride around. In and around Ladakh, the roads are generally declared to be closed from October onwards till sometime in May. During this period, there is no physical closure of the roads, as there will be minimal vehicular traffic between certain points which can be traversed during peak winter even, except during heavy snowfall and adverse road conditions. There is no guarantee on road conditions in the Ladakh district even in summer and so it can only get more unpredictable in winter. So it is virtually out of the question to plan around a timetable the normal way. You might need 6-7 buffer days in a 14 day ride plan.

Since you’ll be flying in and that too in such severe weather, Acclimatization of 2 days at least is a must, without which a ride must not even be attempted.

GEAR BASICS :

Waterproof Riding jacket with an inner liner.

Waterproof Gloves with gauntlet.

Waterproof hiking boots, preferably ones which are rated for subzero hiking use.

Helmet with fog proof visor.

Small O2 bottle 18/36 liter bottle.

Emergency hand warmers.

Emergency bivouac sack.

Thick scarf and balaclava.

Sunscreen (SPF 30 & above).

Basic first aid kit.

The list of gear above may be extensive and expensive, but if one has to ride and survive in the extreme cold, preparation and some amount of investment has to be put in. The gear required is more towards hiking and survival than full on riding gear. This is simply because average speeds are very low in the snow and armour will not be in play in the case of a simple fall because of slips due to black ice and/or snow (These falls will happen if you’re riding in peak winter).

BIKE PREPARATION :

A bike with decent torque and reliability is a must in this weather. The best bikes in this category are either the HH Karizma, the Pulsar P220 or any of the Bullets. But make sure your bike has the kick-start option apart from self start. Lead-acid batteries are not very reliable in extreme cold conditions and push starting a bike alone, at altitude and with snow on the road will be your worst nightmare come true.

Carbureted bikes need to be tuned for high altitude, low oxygen conditions. Fuel injected ones would fare better although the condition of the battery is very critical in this case. Familiarise yourself with the location of the air-filter element as it will have to be removed at some point of your ride. Tyres must be having sufficient tread, and have to be run with lower pressures to gain some more grip. Use a lighter grade engine oil like 10W30.

The bike needs to be lightened, stripped off any excess weight. Preferably, find a lodge or a place to dump luggage before attempting high altitude passes. Pushing a heavy bike up, in low oxygen sub zero temperature, is very very difficult. And you are more likely to not get a good foothold on the ground due to the black ice and/or snow, so you will slip and be on the ground in a flash. Lifting a heavy bike after a fall will be difficult for the same reasons. So, the lighter the bike is, the better. It will ascend a lot easier, and maneuver a lot more nimbler. Remove any or all electrical modifications which are hampering the bike’s reliability.

Riding

Momentum is the single biggest factor while riding in the area. Keep a steady pace around 20-30 kmph at most and slower in narrow ascends, and navigate hairpin or sharp bends riding the momentum in low gear. This requires some planning and looking up and beyond the curve as far as possible.

Keep realistic distance targets for an hour, with frequent stops for water. Water must be kept wrapped so as to prevent freezing.

Windchill is a very important factor to consider when riding in winter. There must be NO exposed skin while riding. Keeping warm while riding is life saving at this time of the year. If you have heated grips, and a heated jacket, nothing like it. But otherwise, wearing multiple layers underneath the outer gear is advisable. Covering up the nose and mouth is also important, as a lot of body heat is lost while respiring.

In case you drop the bike at slow speed or slide out, take some time to collect yourself. Find a proper spot where you get a good foothold, and get the bike back up, while expending as little energy as possible.

If by chance your gloves or boots get wet, immediately dry them out to avoid bigger problems like frostbite. Frostbite is very sneaky and will set in without you even feeling it, and damp gear will only make it faster.

Finally, while the winter vistas are stunning and are completely different from what you may see in a Ladakhi summer, don’t spend time looking for landmarks and boards for bragging rights back home. Most of the milestones and boards put up by the BRO will be either covered by snow, or will be completely under snow. Don’t waste precious time and body heat walking around taking photos.

And when it comes to photos, use a camera which has the least moving parts, as moisture between the moving parts can freeze up and jam up causing damage. Also, carry more batteries as battery life is reduced under extreme cold.

Also, discretion is the better part of valour. If you find the riding difficult, head back ASAP and enjoy the winter from the warmth of your hotel. There is no such thing as being brave and plugging on in conditions that one cannot ride in. Things can go downhill rapidly and it can get very grave in no time, before you know it. So, at the first signs of difficulties, be it with the bike, yourself, or the weather, turn back and head for safety. There will be another day to attempt that destination!

Finally, enjoy yourself. The cold, winter air has many takers and riding in such terrain seen by so few people outside the region, is something to be experienced.

The bike needs to be lightened, stripped off any excess weight. Preferably, find a lodge or a place to dump luggage before attempting high altitude passes. Pushing a heavy bike up, in low oxygen sub zero temperature, is very very difficult. And you are more likely to not get a good foothold on the ground due to the black ice and/or snow, so you will slip and be on the ground in a flash. Lifting a heavy bike after a fall will be difficult for the same reasons. So, the lighter the bike is, the better. It will ascend a lot easier, and maneuver a lot more nimbler. Remove any or all electrical modifications which are hampering the bike’s reliability.

SUPER BIKING TO LEH :

Superbikes are powerful machines. And as we noted earlier, power helps in the ride to Leh. But then power doesn’t come easy. In the sense that very powerful bikes are heavy, bulky, usually have low to very low ground clearance (except for dedicated long-distance off-roaders like the BMW GS1200r and such), have short ‘full-tank’ range, are expensive and complicated, the latter precluding any possibility of repairs except by the rider or his support crew and usually have ergonomics that are not conducive to low speed rough road riding.

But motorcyclists are innovative, creative and have an unnerving habit of improvising with machinery. So the difficulty of actually riding a big bike not suited for the route to Ladakh has its own charm for that adventure-loving biker within and he does it. I myself have ridden a 1250cc/100+ bhp Suzuki Bandit, shod with tarmac tyres, to Leh and beyond via the Manali route in the middle of monsoons. Can be done, has been done and will be done but admittedly is NOT the recommended way to use your prized, envied and expensive beauties. Because the terrain and road conditions are ruthless in the beating they give, both to the rider and his machine, and usually at least one or at times both come away with some damage or the other.

If you still do want to ride your biggie to Leh, despite what has just been stated, do it via the Srinagar route. The roads are a LOT better on that side, fuel is more frequently available and there are stretches of tarmac that will make that big engine worth its while. No such scope exists on the Manali – Leh route.

TIPS FOR THE RIDE :

All said and done, there is still something left over to share, little snippets of information that could come in pretty handy during the ride planning and execution. Scroll along and learn about it all here.

Remember that your behavior will usually be seen as that of the entire motorcycling fraternity. So don’t let us down there.

The importance of keeping a SPOC (single point of contact) back home in a group ride in case the group splits and not everyone is in the network coverage area. Group members can share information with this SPOC and he can convey the same to the other members when they get in touch with him.

Always leave information about your plans with someone back home in case you are venturing into remote areas. This way your last recorded position and direction of movement are known and help/search can be initiated accordingly if needed.

Newspaper sheets make for an excellent insulator in an emergency. Some 3-4 layers beneath the jacket will make for a crinkly but effective wind-break. Shoe insoles cut to shape and in multiple layers not only help keep the feet warm but also work as sweat absorption materiel.

Two cotton/silk balaclavas inside the helmet, worn one on top of the other, can see you through the worst of chills.

Plan your rides so that you can get across water-crossings as early in the day as possible. Post noon the water level rises dramatically as the prolonged sunshine melts snow quicker upstairs.

Whenever you eat Maggi, have it made soupy i.e. with lots of surplus water. This way its easier to digest, stays hot longer while you eat it and adds to your fluid intake.

Dal rice, preferably with boiled veggies/meat added make for great food at altitude. The carbohydrates, protein and fibre keep that tummy alive and kicking.

Chocolates are great for that ‘perk up sugar kick’. Take a bite or two after battling a particularly tough water crossing or climb and feel your spirits rise.

Keep an extra key of the bike on your person. Getting stranded because you have only one key and you’ve lost that is not funny at all.

Don’t try and be a showman with the locals, especially trying to compete with them on the mountain roads. Remember its their daily commute and they know the area like the back of their hand.

Respect their religious places and customs and they’ll respect and help you in turn.

Make it a point to wave or ‘toot’ your thanks to drivers who let you by, especially on those twisty and steep mountain roads. It’s a lot of work for that lorry driver to slow down and steer inside to allow you to pass.

Keep an extra layer of warm clothing handy as the weather high up can change for the worse within meters or minutes.

Do keep checking your bike from time to time however tired or lazy or chilled you might feel. The roads high up can beat the hell out of the best hardware.

Use sunscreen at least with 30+ sph factor. Especially for those with a fair complexion. Those rosy cheeks around you are actually mild sunburn from a high dose of Ultraviolet at altitude!

Put on your warm jackets before the sun goes down. The chill will creep in quicker than you can think.

Eat whenever the opportunity presents itself. You will not feel hungry but you may be very short of calories.

There’s no way you can fight a winning battle with cold, altitude and heights. Nature is ruthless in response to disregard of danger.

Keep a positive outlook. This becomes vital when the weather goes bad, you’re stuck with a puncture and the nearest habitation is two- hours away on the bike. A calm mind and good prior preparation will get you through.

Use zip lock bags for storing things that either need water-proofing or can leak. Includes items like toothpaste, creams etc. Your bike documents, spare memory cards, batteries and paper money can also go in there.

You’ll probably need less clothes that you think but pack whatever you carry in large polythene bags to keep them safe from water and dust. Even the best of saddle-bags/panniers are not completely waterproof.

Riding identical bikes in a group can mean a sharing of spares. Also when in a group, all except the leader should ride with their headlights switched on. Helps a lot in locating others in those rear view mirrors.

Take plenty of breaks. Shun that habit of setting and chasing ‘targets’ in your ‘other’ life. You’re here out of choice and for fun. So freak out and enjoy.

Look around you and seek the beauty in the places you are riding through. This is not your daily office commute. So look up and perk up.

Drink water consciously at frequent intervals. Thirst is NOT an indicator of a need for water at high altitude.

Monitor the colour and quantity of your urine to keep tabs on your hydration levels.

Make it a habit of making notes on points of interest during the day’s ride. Good food joints, a puncture repair shop, a hard water crossing, a good/bad section of the road….they’ll come in handy if not for you but for others who follow you.

If you wear specs, carry an extra pair at a place where they are safe from breakage. Even when riding in remote places where you might not return to for a long time, behave well and impeccably as a motorcyclists.

TRIP MISCELLANY :

Solo Ride

While a solo ride to Ladakh would be the ultimate statement in adventure and become a winning story for the rider that’ll last a life-time, it does entail far greater risks and possibilities of ordinary hazards turning into life-threatening ones. Solo rides are strictly meant for the experienced campaigners. For the one’s who’ve been around a while on the saddle, are multi-skilled motorcyclists in that they can fix their bikes as well as ride them, can read the weather, have built up a temperament of patience and calculated risk-taking and can restrain themselves from a head-long dash into unknown situations. Going solo means needing to plan better, carry more in terms of back-up stuff like spares, food and medicines and paying greater attention to their situation and the conditions as both change dynamically. A SOLO RIDE TO LADAKH IS DEFINITELY A ‘NO-GO’ FOR A FIRST TIMER.

Group Ride

Group rides in contrast are relatively less risky as there’s help at hand in case of a fall or getting stuck at a particularly nasty road condition vis a vis a water crossing, deep slush or a land-slide. Groups also make better economic sense, both in terms of food/accommodation as also for spares if the bikes share common lineage. And there’s the added benefit of having people to talk to, discuss tricky decisions before making them and sharing the awesomeness all around you. Here are a few pointers at what can make for a good group ride to a place like Ladakh:

Cohesion and mutual respect/trust amongst the group members. Democracy works the best here too though the more experienced members’ opinions need to be given more weightage.

Similar riding styles and expectations do help as reasons for disagreement get reduced.

Matching attitudes when it comes to motorcycling and adventure.

Closely matched motorcycle performance will make it easier for the group to stay together.

A similar match in financial abilities also makes for lesser chances of conflict.

Good group management practices like allocating responsibilities, initiative in sharing workloads and unanimously going by the majority.

If every person in the groups thinks about the group and then about himself and similarly if the group thinks about every other rider, that it composes of, that is when the ride shall be successful!

There is no ‘ideal’ group size though 3-5 people riding together are almost akin to a small family and have been known to have more fun together than larger groups. But then human nature automatically sub-divides larger groups into smaller sub-groups of this same number. So as long as everyone is out to ride and have fun together, the numbers don’t really matter except for logistics in an emergency.

EQUIPMENT LIST :

TOOL LIST :

All my fellow transients, if this guide helped you and you had an awesome journey .. You can always convey  your heartfelt thanks and gratitude by way of cash/credit/debit/cheque/dd/wire payments.. :P .. Get Leh'd .. Cheers!